A Kenyan in Denmark
by Adrianne George

Getting her wings
In 1989 Wangeshi Makridis was 22 and she did some things she had never done before. She travelled out of Kenya, she took a plane ride and she landed in Denmark. It was her sister who lured her to Scandinavia, for her sister had married a Dane. Thus started Wangeshi’s life of travel.
During Wangeshi’s maiden voyage her sister took her to the Netherlands where “I fell in love! I don’t know what it was, but there was something about the country that spoke to me, particularly Amsterdam. But I didn’t want to live there”. Five years later Wangeshi flew to the United States and by chance she had a stopover in Italy on her way back to Kenya. It was fate. There was something about Italy, the Italians and their language. “I had finally found another country that could tempt me to live away from home”.
Reason to learn
With the promise of a job as her motivation Wangeshi started Italian lessons directly upon her return to Kenya. She has gone on to live in Greece and currently lives in Denmark. Wangeshi believes it is crucial to learn the local language in order to negotiate life in a new country. While she is reasonably proficient in Danish she feels that she can always improve. Learning Danish taught Wangeshi more than the language but also about the culture and the ways Danes think. This has helped her “negotiate between two very different cultures”. For example Wangeshi now calls people before she visits them, likes hygge* with candles and eats a light lunch.
But she misses the communal spirit, the freeness and family closeness, the friendliness offered by strangers and above all the ingrained respect for elders. “Here in Denmark, even young kids refer to their elders by their first names. I didn’t grow up that way”.

It stings
But learning another European language, culture and mindset didn’t prepare Wangeshi for what she would experience as a traveler with a blue Kenyan passport. She has received demeaning treatment by immigration and customs officials.
“I realize that as long as I am black, with my Kenyan passport, I will always be the ‘other’. So I finally acquired a Danish passport and I am yet to see if this makes travelling easier”.
Immigrating to Europe has made Wangeshi more conscious of her heritage as a Kenyan, an African and a black person. She feels this kind of consciousness was not necessary in Kenya.
Birds of a feather
Having faith has helped Wangeshi makes friends. She made most of her friends where she worships. This is particularly important since she lives in a country where religious apathy is prevalent. She made other friends at university and even more while volunteering at a women’s shelter. And in Denmark there are a lot of societies, forening, centered around varied interests. For Wangeshi they have been a great way to create a network and make friends. Having a sister in Denmark helps tremendously and she and Wangeshi do a good job of calling home. They keep each other in the loop about news from the home front.
Changing but staying the same
Wangeshi vowed that she would not let the Kenyan in her disappear when she moved to Europe. “I have never lost my cultural heritage – the essence of who I am as well as my spirituality”. Despite personal growth Wangeshi says, “I am in many ways the person who left home 12 years ago”. Yet Wangeshi admits that it was difficult to adjust to life in Europe where she often stuck out.
What has living abroad taught you about yourself? Living here has taught me just how self-sufficient and resilient I am. I am a survivor! It wasn’t easy learning the language and getting used to living in a country where you stand out like a sore thumb. She has coped using escapism. “I tend to put off dwelling so much on certain negative issues that I feel would be too traumatic to confront”, she says.
The “I” word
Immigration is a much politicized subject in Denmark. The discourse is harsh and it’s always an issue come election time. Wangeshi thinks that being black and coming from a third world country compounds the issue, particularly when travelling “while black”. The negative discourse/anti-immigrant sentiment is generally targeted at dark skinned immigrants and those from non-western countries. The spotlight is currently on Muslims. Immigrants also experience discrimination when it comes to getting work. Newspaper articles written in March reported on a research study that revealed that changing non-Danish name to a Danish one can mean a higher salary, Wangeshi explains. “For me this is outrageous”.
Yet getting a residence permit is difficult, but easier for foreigners/expats with specific skills as they can get a 3 year green card determined by a 100 points system with five categories: education, language skills, work experience, age, and adaptability into the Danish labor market.
The Danes consider Wangeshi an immigrant/foreigner. She says she is an incidental expatriate turned citizen for practical reasons. She married a Greek and they moved to Denmark to find work. They will eventually move back to Greece to look after her in-laws.

Copenhagen viewed from the City Hall clocktower at night
Danish style
Having a car is optional in the capital. The train, bus and metro service are reasonably reliable. Copenhagen and most of Denmark is very bicycle friendly. But the housing market isn’t so friendly. One has to be on waiting lists for rental apartments. To hit the ground running if moving to Denmark Wangeshi recommends a survival kit of a good winter coat your favorite spices and your favorite magazine subscription. And be sure to visit Tivoli at night for the atmosphere, at least one evening at the Royal Theatre, and if you like museums you are in luck.
Before you pack your bags
Wangeshi advises that you ask yourself if you really want to be away from your loved ones. If you can deal with the separation choose the country and city thoughtfully. Research the practical matters like the weather, job possibilities, housing, etc. Think about learning the local language before you leave, especially if you are planning a long term stay. And last but not least find good social and professional networks.
* One of the fundamental aspects of Danish culture is “hygge”, which, although translated as “coziness” is more akin to “tranquility”. Hygge is a complete absence of anything annoying, irritating, or emotionally overwhelming, and the presence of and pleasure from comforting, gentle, and soothing things. Hygge is often associated with family and close friends. Christmas time when loved ones sit close together with candles lit on a cold rainy night is “hygge”, as is grilling a pølse (Danish sausage) on a long summer evening. These examples, although they do not precisely define “hygge”, can give an English speaker an idea of a deeply valued traditional concept of Danish culture.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culture_of_Denmark
Photo credits: Wangeshi portrait – personal photo, Flags image - ©2009MDM/BlackExpat.com, Copenhagen images – courtesy of Wikipedia author B. Ebbesen (night view) and user Thue (The Lakes)

Swans in The Lakes, Copenhagen at sunset







































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